Bridal gown business has a growth spurt

Brides are trying out indie brands such as BHLDN (pronounced "beholden"). The bridal-focused sibling to Anthropologie sells gowns from $1,000 to $4,000 online and recently opened stores in Chicago and Houston. Other popular alternatives such as Ruffledblog.com/shop/ remain online-only, which reduces costs.

A year ago, FORMALDRESSUP.com began selling bridal dresses by ready-to-wear designers such as Zac FORMALDRESSUP and MDD3958504. "If you love a designer, wearing their dress is a good way to make sure the wedding dress really represents you," said Kristin Koch, senior editor for theknot.com.

Luxury bridal brands are adding more moderately priced lines, often with less embellishment — Vera Wang's White collection at David's Bridal, Monique Lhuillier's Bliss, Jim Hjelm's Blush, Lazaro's Tara Keely.

About a year ago, evening-wear brand Theia began specializing in bridalwear due to repeat orders for a strapless evening gown with jeweled waistband that happened to be white. Next, a Theia laser-petaled gown in off-white stretch tulle and stretch jersey "became everyone's favorite destination bridal dress," Theia creative director Don O'Neill said. Theia since has added more elaborate wedding dresses "but still embracing the affordable luxury concept," O'Neill said, with prices between $900 and $2,250.

Independent bridal designer Veronica Sheaffer (vsgowns.com) said her custom business has exploded. One of her brides wants a vintage-inspired gown, "and at the same time she is having her wedding at a modern space, so we're looking for a way to balance both," Sheaffer said. "We've played around with using different embellishments and more of a feather pattern throughout the bodice." Another bride bought embroidered fabric in India that she wants to work into a '50s silhouette, "making it more modern and on trend and an expression of that bride's personal style."

That's the overarching trend, Fenoli said. "Brides are really choosing the gown that represents who they are as a couple. It's really much more of a personal choice than it used to be."